RustStop® RS-4 installs easily and can be done in less than one hour without any special equipment.

PARTS INCLUDED:  (For a Standard 4 Anode 12V system)

·   1 x Command Module with 2 x adhesive mounting strips on back.

·   1 x Warranty and Maintenance Record Card.

·   1 x 8m Roll of electrical wire (Rear Anodes).

·   1 x 4m Roll of electrical wire (Front Anodes).

·   4 x Aluminum Anodes with adhesive mounting strips.

·   4 x Anode Screws with Locking Washers.

·   4 x 3mm crimp type ring terminal for anode wire connection.

·   2 x Male crimp type bullet connectors for anode wire connection.

·   2 x 8mm crimp type ring terminal for battery connection.

 INSTALL AS FOLLOWS: (Read all the instructions before you begin)

1)  MOUNT THE COMMAND MODULE inside engine compartment on the battery side of the vehicle (if possible) where it’s easily visible (See figure 1.). Choose any flat area, away from hot exhaust as much as possible.  Remove dirt, grease etc. with alcohol or suitable cleaner and wipe dry. Remove the protective backing from the two (2) adhesive strips and, carefully, place the Command Module in place, pressing firmly to seat the adhesive.  DO NOT MAKE BATTERY CONNECTIONS AT THIS TIME.

2)  FIND LOCATIONS TO MOUNT THE FRONT ANODES.  The best locations are in the front fender “recesses” (channels where the hood “seats” when its closed) on each side of the vehicle (See figure 2). Choose flat areas between mounting screws, rubber bumpers etc., where the 6 x .5 inch aluminum strips will lay flat and not be hit by the hood when it closes. If there is a convenient hole or crevice in the fender recess, you can locate the screw hole end of the Anodes close to it for ease of running the Anode wires at a later stage. Remove dirt, grease etc. from both locations with alcohol or suitable cleaner and wipe dry. Do not adhere Anodes at this time.

IMPORTANT, ANODE PLACEMENT:  It is essential that all Anodes be placed in areas of the vehicle where they will get wet anytime the vehicle gets wet. Choose locations where water collects or runs off. The Front locations in the hood recess channels are ideal as water continually flows over the Anodes during periods of rain etc.

IMPORTANT:  Make a scratch in the paint that will be centered beneath the Anode. Choose one of your Front locations and scratch along a straight edge with a screwdriver, or other sharp object, to dig through the paint into the bare metal for about 3 inches. The scratch should be at least 1/16 of an inch wide. The Once you’ve mounted the Anode it cannot be move without it being damaged. Carefully position the Anode before adhering it to the vehicle. Remove the protective backing from the adhesive strip and, carefully, place the Anode over the scratch pressing firmly to seat the adhesive. Repeat these instructions, for the other Front Anode, in the hood recess on the other side of the vehicle.

IMPORTANT:  The special graphite based adhesive must be kept dry a minimum of 24 hours, after placement, to allow proper bond.

3)  WIRE THE FRONT ANODES. Using a roll of BLACK electrical wire, cut back the wire’s insulation by ¼ inch. Insert this bare wire into the first small ring connectors’ plastic covered end and “crimp” or squeeze the connector tightly to the bare wire. (Use a crimping tool, wire cutters, pliers etc.). Insert a screw and locking washer through ring terminal connectors’  “eye” and screw into hole in the Front Anode of your choice, "First Front Anode" hereafter. 

IMPORTANT: It is essential that the locking washers are used and under no circumstances should they be left out. Doing so could cause the screw to go too deep and short the Anode to the body of the car.

IMPORTANT: Keep wire away from moving parts and hot or abrasive surfaces.

Thread the BLACK wire from the First Front Anode through any convenient hole or crevice (if none, a hole can be punched or drilled) into the engine compartment and to the Command Module, securing occasionally to other wiring, fixtures, etc. with electrical tape or plastic ties. Cut the BLUE wire leaving ample length to make connection. Do not make connection at this time.

IMPORTANT: At any point where wire goes through a hole, or over some sharp edge, protection is advisable. A dab of silicon sealant or similar product, or electrical tape wrapped around wire, can plug the hole and secure the wire from rubbing.

REPEAT INSTRUCTIONS of paragraph 3) up to this point for the other Front Anode, "Second Front Anode" hereafter.

At this point, remove ¼ inch of insulation from each BLUE wire, insert both bare wires into the first male snap plug connector and crimp firmly. Insert this male snap plug connector into either female snap plug connector on the Command Module.

4)  FIND LOCATIONS TO MOUNT THE REAR ANODES at both back corners of the vehicle in any area that will get wet when the vehicle is wet. (See figures 3, 4, 5 and 6). Choose a flat area where the Anodes can lay flat and the wires can be easily concealed through a hole, crevice, under a trim piece etc.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the Anodes will not be hit by anything closing. 

Remove dirt, grease etc. with alcohol or a suitable cleaner and wipe dry.

IMPORTANT:  Make scratches in the paint as on the Front Anodes.  Remove the protective backing from the adhesive strips and, carefully, place the Anodes over the scratches pressing firmly to seat the adhesive.

5)  WIRE THE REAR ANODES. Starting at the Command Module, use some of the BLACK electrical wire that is long enough to run between and connect to one of the rear anodes. Cut back the wire’s insulation by ¼ inch, insert the bare wire into a male snap plug connector and crimp firmly.  Insert this male snap plug connector into the remaining available female snap plug connector on the Command Module.

Thread the wire through the selected avenue of concealment, to one of the Rear Anodes, in one of the following ways: 

IMPORTANT:  Keep wire away from moving parts and hot or abrasive surfaces.

For a car, SUV, van, station wagon etc. the wire can be run through a hole in the firewall under the dash, through the interior of the vehicle (concealed by carpeting, trim etc.), then to one of the Anodes.

For ANY vehicle (this is usually the simplest method) the wire can be run down through the engine compartment to the underside of the vehicle, then through or along the vehicle frame and then up through a crevice, hole or trim piece to one of the Anodes. (The wire is impervious to gasoline, oil etc. but be sure to secure it with plastic ties or other fasteners at regular intervals to prevent its being torn loose).

Cut the BLACK wire leaving ample length to make connection to the Rear Anode you chose "First Rear Anode" hereafter. Cut back the BLACK wires insulation by 1/4 inch. Do not make connection at this time.

Locate a Second piece of the BLACK wire that is long enough to run between the First Rear Anode and the other Rear Anode "Second Rear Anode" hereafter. Make sure you allow ample length for connections to both Anodes. Cut back one end of the Second BLACK wire's insulation by 1/4 inch.

At this point, insert both bare wires into the third small ring terminal connectors’ plastic covered end and “crimp” tightly to the bare wire.  Insert a screw and locking washer through the ring terminal connectors’  “eye” and screw into the hole in the First Rear Anode.

Now run the Second BLACK wire over the the Second Rear Anode. Be sure to secure it with plastic ties or other fasteners where needed. Cut back the BLACK wire's insulation by 1/4 inch. Insert the bare wire into the forth small ring terminal connectors’ plastic covered end and “crimp” tightly to the bare wire.  Insert a screw and locking washer through the ring terminal connectors’  “eye” and screw into the hole in the Second Rear Anode.

6)  CONNECT THE BLACK WIRE from the Command Module by “threading” it through the engine compartment to the vehicle’s battery, securing it occasionally, and leaving ample length to connect it to the negative battery terminal.   (If the wires provided are too short due to relative locations of Command Module and Battery they may be lengthened accordingly.  Be sure to insulate connections well using tape or connectors.)     Cut wire, remove ¼ inch insulation and insert the bare wire into the plastic end of a large ring terminal connector and crimp firmly.  Fasten this to the negative battery terminal connection.

7)  NOW, LASTLY, CONNECT THE RED WIRE from the Command Module by threading it through the engine compartment, securing it periodically, cutting it back ¼ inch, inserting the bare wire into the plastic end of the last large ring terminal connector, crimping firmly, and fastening it to the positive battery terminal connection.  At this point the  “green light” on the Command Module should be blinking showing that the unit is working correctly.

NOTE:  The Command Module is ALWAYS on so that the vehicle is constantly protected.  The power draw is minimal and special circuitry shuts unit off in the event of a weak battery, lights left on etc.  It comes back on automatically when power is restored.   The electrical current operating the RS2000 will not interfere with any of the vehicles functions or other electrical accessories and is absolutely safe.

8)  TEST by using one of two methods (test each Anode one at a time):

a) Use a voltmeter set for 0-50 volts DC.  Place the red (positive) lead on the metal of one of the Anodes and the black (negative) lead on any grounded part of the vehicle (or the negative battery terminal). All Anodes should read between 40 and 50 volts DC. Repeat this test for all Anodes.

b) Using an extra piece of wire, strip a little of the insulation off of each end. Place one end of the wire on the metal of one of the Anodes and the other end on any grounded part of the vehicle (or the negative battery terminal). If the the "Inspection Light" on the Command Module comes on, then the Anode is wired correctly. Repeat this test for all Anodes.

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